Margate: 2 Old towns , One Nostalgic Place

Uncovering Margate’s Hidden Histories: A First Step in a Journey Through Time and Memory

A Journey Through Margate's History: From Personal Memories to Seaside Legacy

Growing up in the UK during the 80s, the English we spoke was a quirky shorthand, brimming with double meanings and charming terms. Take "town," for instance. In Margate, where I grew up, when my mum said, "We need to pop into town," it wasn’t just a geographic location—it was a grand adventure.

Town: The Heart of Childhood Adventures

"Town" meant a jaunt down the high street for some classic shopping, where I’d usually end up trailing behind my mum like a devoted shadow. "Margate" was merely a name on the map to me, but "town" was where all the action happened. The high street had everything a kid could dream of: Woolworths for pocket-money treats, Burtons for Dad’s trousers, John Menzies for books and comics, WH Smith for everything else, and, of course, Pizza Hut for when all that shopping left you ravenous.

The crown jewel of our "town" trips was always Playtime, the toy shop conveniently located next to McDonald’s—a brilliant move by someone who knew that new toys and Happy Meals were the ultimate kid combo. It’s a wonder we ever wanted to leave. Nowadays, the high street leaves a bit to be desired, but those memories of adventure remain vivid.

Woolworths Margate High Street 2008

Burton Menswear, Margate High Street 2008

A Glimpse of the Old Town

Back in the day, the area now called the Old Town was known as "The Old Market Place" or simply "the bit down the bottom." It was a place that, in true British fashion, had seen better days—derelict yet still home to a few businesses that had somehow evaded the passage of time. There was a bank, a chemist, a solicitor’s office, and a fishing tackle shop where I’d often pop in with my dad for maggots to use as bait. Ah, childhood joys!

Nearby, an old-school weightlifting gym drew local bouncers and local faces—Margate’s answer to Muscle Beach, minus the beach. The Bull’s Head and The Wellington were the pubs of choice, frequented by locals and the token drunken Irishman who had been living in town on the dole for 20 years but still felt the need to constantly moan about Margate and how great it was "back home." Alongside a pint and a friendly chat, you could get anything from knock-off clothing and aftershave off the back of a lorry to cut-price cigarettes. Amidst this, old lock-up shops stood frozen in time, fully stocked but long abandoned, as if someone had misplaced the keys decades ago. I have fond memories of a glassblower near the museum—a cool nod to Margate’s industrial past and spirit that always manages to shine through.

Margate's Rise as a Seaside Resort

The 1730s brought a wave of enthusiasm for sea bathing, transforming Margate into a fashionable resort. Hoys—sailing vessels—soon gave way to steamships, and eventually, trains, all ferrying a steady stream of visitors from London. This influx of tourists gave Margate its reputation as a vibrant seaside getaway, laying the groundwork for the bustling high street we once knew.

Music, Memories, and Historical Insights

In my teenage years, Fun House Records was the place to be, boasting an impressive selection of new and second-hand CDs and vinyl. It was a mecca for music lovers, offering something refreshingly different compared to the Our Price branch up at the top end of the high street. King Street in the Old Town still bears the marks of Margate’s industrial past, with the old Cobb Brewery and bank standing as stubborn reminders of what once was. The Cobb Brewery, a prominent feature in any bird’s-eye view of Margate, was a significant landmark until its demolition in 1971.As ships arrived from all over the world at Margate Harbour, the Old Town attracted a diverse range of visitors, especially due to its proximity to the harbour. The mix of affluence and vice was quite apparent, with several grand hotels hosting notable guests, including dukes and, more famously, Prince Louis Napoleon, Napoleon Bonaparte’s nephew, who was exiled to the UK and visited Margate. Some suggest his visits might have been due to the town’s reputation for vice. Karl Marx also stayed in a dwelling in the Old Town, where a blue plaque now sits proudly in a quirky vintage shop that also sells ice cream for £5 a pop. I wonder what Mr Marx would think of that.

Advertising Flyer for the Fun House Record Shop in Margate Old Town - 1989

Back of one of several warehouses of Cobbs brewery. Trinity Square, Margate. Year unknown

The old Bank and remaining frontage of Cobbs Brewery on King Street, Margate. Present Day

Margate’s Original Heart: St John’s Area

With all the hype around the Old Town as Margate’s cultural heart, it’s easy to forget that this wasn’t Margate’s original old town. It’s a bit like mistaking the latest Hollywood blockbuster for a classic film—entertaining, sure, but missing the essence of the original. The true roots of Margate lie just under a mile away at the top end of the high street in the St John’s area, where the town’s history stretches back to just before 1100.

St Johns Church, Margate. Present Day

Vestry of St Johns Church - which was used as an ammunition store for the cannons on Fort Hill. Present Day

St John the Baptist Church, Margate’s historic heart, isn’t just a pretty face—it’s a cornerstone of the town’s past. This beautiful church, dedicated to—surprise!—St John the Baptist, is often highlighted by historians for its architectural significance. It served the small hamlet known as "Meregate," the original settlement that eventually evolved into the Margate we know today. The vestry of St John’s Church even served as an ammunition store for the cannons in Fort Hill, linking the church’s history with Margate’s military past.

From Monastic Times to Modernity

Long before the Normans arrived with their castles, the Princess of Kent, Eadburh (try saying that three times fast), established an abbey in nearby Minster around 670—though the records are a bit sketchy. This grand project was overseen by the monks of St Augustine, who also set up shop in nearby chapels, including what are now St Peter’s in Broadstairs and St Lawrence in Ramsgate. These chapels were run by the monks until the Parish of St John was established, with Adamus of Essex appointed as Vicar in 1230. Eventually, St Peter’s and St Lawrence’s went their own way and became independent parishes. St John’s Church has seen numerous changes over the centuries, each adding a new layer to Margate’s story, like a historical lasagne (just with fewer Italians and more ancient monks).

St John’s area wasn’t just about religion. It also had its share of everyday life, including a school for the deaf and dumb around Milton and Byron Avenue—a testament to the community’s commitment to education and care long before inclusivity became a buzzword. With nods to writers like Byron and Milton, this part of town has its own historical tales. For instance, on July 24th, 1940, at 1:05 pm, a 21-year-old German Messerschmitt pilot, Lt Josef Schauff, crashed in Byron Avenue. He bailed out of the aircraft but, due to a parachute malfunction, tragically landed in a nearby school for the deaf and dumb and died. He is buried in Manston Road Cemetery in Margate.

Crash site of German Messerchmitt on Byron Avenue Margate, July 24th 1940

Cockfighting and street pugilism took place outside the Six Bells pub, which was adjacent to the main entrance of St John’s Church but has long since disappeared. Crazy as it sounds, these activities were carried out by more affluent folk from out of town. The cells for the condemned lay below the street nearby, and there were several public executions. The pub has also been referenced as the "One Bell," but I believe this to be in error. As mentioned by Michael David Mirams in his book Kent Inns and Inn Signs, the "Six Bells" was rebuilt in 1953, replacing an inn of 1716-22, which was called the "Five Bells" until 1787. In 1787, more bells were added to St John's Church tower, explaining the name change. The old house was the haunt of smugglers, who hid their illicit gains in the vaults of St John’s Churchyard opposite, and of naval press gangs. Cockfighting was held on the premises during the 1770s. The Kentish Gazette of 1770 mentions that gentlemen of Canterbury and Birchington would fight against those of Margate… fighting at the "Five Bells." The building that housed the pub that was rebuilt still stands today on the corner of the high street and Churchfields, a modern echo of the area’s storied past.

Original Six Bells Pub , Date Unknown

Rebuilt Six Bells Pub which site pretty much in situ of the original It was opened in 1955 but closed in 1987. The building sat empty for many years until it was turned into the 6 Bells Childrens Centre in 2020 - Present Day.

Aerial Warfare: Margate’s Brush with the Skies

While the horrors of the Blitz are more commonly remembered, Margate’s brushes with aerial warfare actually began a bit earlier, during World War I. In fact, Margate was one of the first British towns to be targeted by Gotha bombers. Between the spring and summer of 1917, Gothas targeted areas of the east Kent coast, including Margate, dropping bombs over the town, causing significant damage and terrifying residents. Another close encounter was the appearance of a Zeppelin hovering above the town. Imagine looking up and seeing a giant balloon of doom floating overhead—hardly the usual seaside attraction. Although the Zeppelin raids didn’t cause as much destruction as the later bombings of World War II, they were enough to leave a lasting impression on the town’s history, proving that Margate’s skies were not always filled with seagulls and sunshine.

The Timeless Charm of Margate

Margate is like any other place steeped in social history. In New York, you might travel to the Bronx to see where Edgar Allan Poe lived, or in London, you’d visit Highgate Cemetery or Whitechapel for their historical significance. Similarly, Margate’s rich tapestry of history is woven into every corner of the town. From the bustling high street of my childhood to the storied St John’s area, there’s a deep and often overlooked historical significance that many pass by without a second thought.

So, next time you find yourself in Margate, take a moment to wander through its streets with fresh eyes. Whether it’s exploring the now-trendy Old Town or strolling past St John’s Church, each step reveals a piece of the town's layered history. It’s not just about the sandy beaches or the vibrant art scene that Margate has become known for in recent years; it’s about understanding the roots that have shaped the town into what it is today.

Looking Ahead: More Tales from Margate

Thank you for sticking with me through this historical journey of Margate! I’ve only scratched the surface, and there’s much more to uncover. I could ramble on about Margate’s rich history endlessly, but for now, I hope you’ve started to glimpse the broader narrative that this charming town has to offer.

This is just the beginning of my Substack adventure, where I’ll dive into a smorgasbord of Margate topics. Stay tuned for quirky dives into Cliftonville, the intriguing history of Judaism in Margate, tales from the Margate police force, and some delightfully macabre stories featuring the town’s most colourful characters. Your curiosity is the fuel that keeps this exploration going, so I hope you’re as excited as I am to uncover the many layers of Margate’s past!