Highbury and Margate: Navigating Gentrification in Historic Spaces

A freestyle gone wrong

Five weeks into my Substack journey, and I'm really enjoying the ride. It has certainly been an exciting first few weeks; as I write this, I have a 37 free subscribers. Positively, that’s like one new subscriber a day, so I must be doing something right for sure! For those who've subscribed or followed over the past month, you’ll know my focus has been writing about the history of my hometown, Margate. I’ve said it before, but I truly love this platform. However, I’ve noticed that the excitement of writing here has also brought a bit of unexpected pressure—or what could be described as anxiety. The ideas are flowing; I have several articles nearly finished or ready for polishing, but it’s easy to get caught up in wanting everything to be perfect. 

That’s why I’ve decided to take a step back and embrace a different approach this week. Instead of stressing over perfection, I’m diving into this note with the goal of covering whatever comes to mind—a little Margate history, some current frustrations from my point of view, and anything else that might pop up. Practice makes perfect, right? 

I mentioned in one of my previous Substack notes (you can follow me if you like) that I’m blown away by the honest and sincere messages and communication on Substack. It’s so great to get feedback and fair critique from enthusiasts like myself and, indeed, those with more experience, including PhD-level expertise. As a new writer, these are resources I could not obtain otherwise, and I will certainly utilize these channels to develop my skills in writing and presenting, highlighting Margate’s history to the best of my ability. 

I’ve always been interested in history, especially when it comes to Margate, but I’m new to writing. Like in my previous career as an engineer, I’ve learned that nothing sinks in unless I’m combining cognitive and physical effort through practice. It’s a trait I’ve always admired in people—those who hone their craft by simply doing the reps, whether in sport, music, or film. Take Kobe Bryant, for example. His "Mamba Mentality" drove him to arrive at practice hours early, putting in countless extra hours to perfect his skills. He often stated that he wasn't just trying to be better than anyone else; he aimed to be the best version of himself every day. That relentless dedication is what transformed him into one of the greatest basketball players in history. 

Similarly, Nirvana’s rise to fame was built on a foundation of hard work and determination. Before becoming the face of grunge music, they spent years performing in small clubs, tirelessly honing their sound and stage presence through countless live shows. Their raw and unpolished performances were a testament to their dedication; they didn’t achieve success overnight but instead put in the reps that prepared them for the explosive success of Nevermind. Just like the Beatles, Kobe Bryant, and Nirvana, I am learning that mastering a craft takes time, perseverance, and a willingness to embrace the journey, imperfections and all. 

At this point, I have to give another nod of thanks to those that have taken the time to message and give some advice—I am very appreciative! The support, feedback, and conversations have been invaluable, and they’ve made me even more excited to continue this journey with all of you. 

In its purest form, the question I ask is: what a week it has been. Jokes aside, if you’re a writer, journo, or just love a bit of gossip, then the first week of October 2024 has certainly given us something to talk about. Whether it’s the invasion in the Middle East, the interesting decisions made by the newly elected Labour government here in the UK, or Arsenal beating PSG, it’s been a whirlwind. 

Speaking of Arsenal, this past weekend, I took my kids to see them play Southampton at the Emirates. We arrived in N5 with plenty of time to spare because I wanted to finally show them Highbury, or Highbury Square as it’s now known. For years, I’ve told them stories about the old ground and its significance, not just for the club but for football culture as a whole. Walking through the streets of Highbury, it was incredible to see how the area had changed, yet the soul of the place remained intact. 

The redevelopment of Highbury into Highbury Square has been handled with such care and respect for Arsenal’s heritage. As we approached the site, the preserved art deco façade of the East Stand immediately took me back to the glory days. Seeing it integrated into modern housing while still honouring its past gave me a feeling of continuity—like the history of the club wasn’t just forgotten, but purposefully woven into the fabric of the local community. The pitch where legends once played has been transformed into a beautiful garden for the new residents, and it’s clear that every aspect of the redevelopment was designed to keep the legacy of Highbury alive. 

Arsenal Football Club, originally founded as Dial Square in 1886 by munitions workers from Woolwich, quickly grew into one of England’s most storied teams. After joining the Football League in 1893 as Woolwich Arsenal, the club faced financial struggles due to low attendances in the relatively isolated location of Woolwich, South East London. By 1910, under the guidance of chairman Henry Norris, Arsenal’s future was at risk. Norris recognized that staying in Woolwich would limit the club’s growth, and in 1913, the decision was made to move Arsenal north, to Highbury in North London. 

Henry Norris Arsenal Chairmen 14 December 1918 – 26 October 1922

The move to Highbury was pivotal for Arsenal’s fortunes. Highbury, a more central and accessible location, allowed the club to tap into a larger fanbase, and the new ground became a spiritual home for the club over the following decades. Highbury Stadium, known for its art deco design, became iconic in football culture, especially with its elegant East and West Stands built in the 1930s. Arsenal's reputation grew in the years following the move, as did its trophy cabinet, solidifying the club’s position as one of England’s elite teams. 

However, by the early 2000s, Highbury’s capacity of just over 38,000 became a limiting factor. The club faced the challenge of competing with other top European clubs that had expanded their stadiums and revenue streams. In 2006, Arsenal moved to the newly built Emirates Stadium, a state-of-the-art facility with a capacity of over 60,000. While the move was essential for Arsenal’s financial future and competitive standing, the club made it clear that they would keep the spirit of Highbury alive. 

To honour the history of Highbury, the club transformed the old stadium into a residential development called Highbury Square. The redevelopment preserved many aspects of the historic ground, especially the art deco façade of the East Stand, which was maintained and integrated into the new design. The pitch area was converted into a garden for residents, and the overall architectural design ensured that the legacy of Highbury remained visible for future generations. 

Highbury’s East Stand , now transformed into luxury apartments, beautifully preserves its iconic facade, blending historic charm with modern living

The Highbury Square development had a significant impact on the local area. It revitalized the neighbourhood, bringing new residents and modern housing to the heart of Highbury, while also retaining the historic character of the area. For Arsenal fans, the preservation of the East Stand’s façade and other key features meant that the spiritual essence of Highbury endured. On matchdays, many fans still visit the old site, taking photos by the iconic entrances and paying homage to what was once a fortress for Arsenal during their glory years. 

This blending of the past with the present allows a new generation of Arsenal supporters to experience a piece of the club’s rich history. The Emirates Stadium may represent the club's future, but Highbury remains a cherished symbol of Arsenal's heritage, with its preserved features standing as a reminder of the club’s formative years. By integrating the old stadium into the local community, Arsenal ensured that the emotional connection to Highbury would never be lost, allowing its legacy to live on, both in the hearts of long-standing fans and in the imaginations of those who will carry the club forward. It felt surreal walking around with my kids, pointing out the iconic East Stand entrance and explaining how this very spot was once a fortress for Arsenal during their glory years. Even though Highbury is now a residential development, its essence hasn’t been erased—it’s been carefully integrated into the lives of those who live there now, creating a unique blend of history and modern living. 

I couldn’t help but compare this to what’s happening in Margate. While Arsenal’s move to the Emirates was necessary for financial reasons, they made sure that the club's heart—its history at Highbury—was preserved. They didn’t erase the past; they celebrated it. But in Margate, the gentrification we’re seeing doesn’t seem to have the same sense of reverence for the town’s rich history. It’s frustrating. Instead of harnessing the town’s past and integrating it into the modern landscape, there’s a sense that Margate’s heritage is being swept aside, or worse, ignored altogether. The same care that was taken to preserve Highbury could work wonders in Margate, where so much of its historical fabric is intertwined with the town’s identity. 

Hawley Street in Margate is a fascinating example of a town in transition, reflecting Margate's development from a working maritime community to a bustling seaside resort. Originally laid out in the 18th century, it is located just a short walk from Margate’s historic harbour, which was vital for both the fishing industry and trade with nearby coastal towns. 

In the 19th century, Hawley Street found itself at the heart of Margate's commercial activity, with numerous small businesses catering to both locals and the burgeoning number of tourists. With the arrival of the railway in 1846, Margate became a popular destination for day-trippers from London, and streets like Hawley Street benefited from this influx. Victorian-era businesses on Hawley Street ranged from bakers and butchers to grocers and tailors, all serving the needs of visitors looking to enjoy Margate's sandy beaches and promenade. 

One notable building on Hawley Street was the Hawley Square Workhouse, which opened in the early 19th century. Although it wasn’t directly on Hawley Street, the workhouse’s influence extended over much of the area, as the town’s poorer residents, often housed there, would have frequented the shops and markets of Hawley Street. The workhouse was part of the Poor Law system and later became the Margate Cottage Hospital in the late 1800s, marking a shift toward more charitable care within the community. 

As Margate continued to thrive through the early 20th century, Hawley Street remained a busy hub. Businesses adjusted to changing times, with shops shifting their focus toward the tourist economy. The street’s proximity to key attractions like the Theatre Royal, which had been operating since the late 18th century, meant that it was frequented by both locals and visitors alike. 

Hawley Street Margate, 1901

Given all this rich history, it begs the question: why can’t this very history be harnessed to celebrate and develop the town’s identity further? Instead, we’re seeing a trend where new residents and businesses feel the need to change or rebrand areas—take the recent renaming of the area between Hawley Street and the Old Town to "Hawley Quarter," for example. What drives this need to overwrite the past instead of embracing it? There seems to be a disconnect between honouring Margate’s heritage and the direction the town is being pulled toward today. 

The slick social medial branding of the unofficial ‘Hawley Quarter’ in Margate

The specialness of Highbury’s regeneration is in its balance. It isn’t just about housing or new development—it’s about preserving a story, maintaining a connection to the club’s past, and allowing future generations to experience that. Highbury Square shows what’s possible when regeneration isn’t just about building new structures or attracting more people, but about maintaining the spirit of a place. It’s created a space where the past and present coexist, where locals and fans alike can still feel that deep connection to the club’s formative years. 

In Margate, where history runs deep, there is so much potential for a similar approach. The town’s past is filled with fascinating stories, characters, and a cultural richness that deserves to be woven into any plans for the future. But right now, it feels like gentrification is more about change for change’s sake rather than change that honours what came before. Highbury’s transformation proves that regeneration can enhance rather than erase, and I wonder what it would be like if Margate followed that example—ensuring its history isn’t lost, but celebrated, just like Arsenal did with Highbury. 

For now, though, I’ll hold on to the hope that other places might learn from Arsenal’s example—how to grow without losing the things that make a place truly special. 

I recently found myself waiting in line for a bagel at a new spot in Margate. The woman serving me had a clear American accent, so after some loose chat, I asked her where in the States she was from. “Brooklyn,” she said. I couldn’t help but respond with excitement—what a place, rich in history, and having been there once, I can’t wait to go back. So, naturally, I asked, “Wow, what brought you to Margate?” Her reply caught me off guard: “New York, especially Brooklyn, is a capitalist hellhole.” She said it with such conviction, I almost sympathized with her reasoning—until I realized she was about to charge me £9 for a bagel! The irony wasn’t lost on me, escaping capitalism only to serve up artisanal bagels at an inflated price. 

That said, they are pretty good bagels, but at that price, I can’t indulge too often. The shop itself is just a stone’s throw away from an ice cream place with a pretentious blue plaque proudly declaring that Karl Marx once stayed in the building. The funny thing is, the plaque is fake—not because Marx didn’t stay there, but because it hasn’t gone through any official verification or registration process. The owners just felt entitled to slap it on as a quirky selling point. And at over £5 a scoop for ice cream, it seems like they’re using that connection to justify the steep prices. Yet another layer of Margate's evolving (and expensive) charm! - I also think what Mr Marx would have thought for the price of Ice Cream?

Margate: The Gentrification Myth 

Margate has long been a town with a rich, complex history. But in recent years, it seems to have gained more recognition for its gentrification rather than for its legacy. The term "London Prices" has been adopted as a standard here, almost as a way to wash over the extortionate costs for general things like beer. It’s not uncommon to pay nearly £9 for a pint in Margate, and still, someone will casually utter, "Well, that’s London Prices for you!" But in reality, this is a myth. 

Yes, London is expensive—this weekend, I paid £6.50 for a pint at the Emirates Stadium. But Margate’s soaring prices are hardly justifiable under the guise of a London comparison. And then there’s that very annoying, pretentious term: "Shoreditch-on-Sea." Really? In Shoreditch, you can grab a pint of milk after 9 p.m. on a Sunday, and you can expect shops to be open on a Monday. Can we say the same for Margate? 

The truth is, gentrification has transformed parts of Margate, but often in ways that seem disconnected from the town's true essence. The rising cost of living, driven by this influx of "Londoners," has changed the dynamic of the town, for better or worse. 

Freestyle Reflections 

So, having started this article in a freestyle manner, it surprisingly stayed on the focused topic of gentrification in Margate. It might be apparent that I have a few issues with it? I think I'll leave it there, though—I could go on. Freestyling as a writer, especially this early in my journey, might require more personal attention and development. That said, I'm new to writing and suppose I need to test my limits—it’s certainly been fun. I'll now get back to Margate's history and the spooky tales I promised in my last article. For now, if you’d like to subscribe and get my articles on Margate’s history as they’re released, please do. And if you enjoy my work and feel like buying me a coffee (or a pint), I’d be very grateful!